The tensioner works well; the electric sealer is useless. Buy the tensioner alone and add a pack of metal clamps and a crimping tool.Tensioner (photos 1 through 4)This tool may not serve well for a warehouse where 100 boxes per day have to be banded, but if you occasionally need to band a large, heavy box at home, this tool is a good economical choice. My only complaint is the instruction sheet. It is worthless. I hope my instructions are more clear. First off, there is no way to release tension, once applied. The windlass drum turns one way only. Make sure the strap and any edge protectors are properly positioned before you tension the band. The handle lifts to wrap the strap on the windlass to apply tension. The handle rachets down to prepare for another partial turn. Or the handle closes fully down to cut the strap (front guide) and release the rear clamp. The strap feeds in from the rear of the tool, under the clamp and under the front guide. Photo 1 shows the "rest" position (handle released). Note that the rear clamp is closed and the slot in the front guide is unobstructed. The handle is fully closed in photo 2. Note that the rear clamp is open and the strap cutter in the front guide has rotated to the "cut" position. This is the position required to load the free end of a strap into the tensioner. Photo 3 shows the free end "loaded" and properly positioned. Photo 4 shows the "reel end" of the strap loaded through the front guide and wrapped on the windlass. Raise and lower the handle until the desired tension has been applied. Crimp a clamp onto the strap in front of the tensioner to join the free end to the tensioned strap. Then close the handle completely to cut the strap and released the tool. Quite simple really, but the instruction sheet is as clear as mud.Electric sealer (photos 5 through 8)This sealer is worthless. Buy metal clamps and a crimping tool instead. Photo 5 shows the sealer in the "rest" position. Photo 6 is a closeup of the "jaws" in that position. The "tongue" is the only part of the tool that is heated. The tensioned strap passes between the tongue and the upper jaw. The free end of the strap passes between the tongue and the lower jaw. Photo 7 shows the tool in position 1, with the handles partially squeezed. The jaws close to press the straps against both sides of the tongue, and thus to partially melt the plastic. Photo 8 shows the tool in position 2, with the handles fully squeezed. The tongue is withdrawn and the straps are pressed together so the melted sides can fuse. An ingenious idea really, but it just doesn't work. At least not with polypropylene (PP) strapping. I figured out how the tool enters position 1 and then position 2 as the handles were squeezed. I let the tool preheat and then gave it a try. The strap essentially melted through and parted under tension. I practiced several times on the wasted strapping (with no tension applied) until I thought I had it figured out. Then I tried a second, third and fourth time with tensioned straps. All attempts failed. If you let the strap touch the hot tongue while positioning the tool, the strap melts enough to pull apart under tension. If you squeeze the handles too slowly, the tool remains in position 1 too long, and the strap melts enough to pull apart under tension. If you squeeze the handles too quickly, the tool does not remain in position 1 long enough to melt the surfaces of the straps, and the straps do not bond. I was able to achieve what appeared to be acceptable bonds during my practice "attempts", but I was never able to "weld" a band successfully with the strap under tension. Save yourself some frustration (and money). Buy metal clamps and a crimping tool, not this electric sealer